Horse SaddleShop

This bit has a snaffle mouthpiece with a short shank and a chain. You can find them on Amazon.com.

I personally swear by this bit as the next step up from a snaffle. While it has some leverage because of the shanks, it's a very mild bit. It also helps a horse get used to shanks & a chain so that they are prepared if they are ever transitioned up into a curb bit.

You may need purchase a chain to go on the bit separately - it usually doesn't come with one.

Make sure, whichever bit you buy, that it's the proper width for your horse's mouth. A 5"-wide mouthpiece is the standard size sold.
(See my Fitting A Bit article.)

See my paid article Transitioning Into a Curb Bit to learn how to select and correctly ride in the right leverage bit for your horse.

Horse SaddleShop

The bit pictured here is a very mild basic curb bit. This is my favorite bit of all time, and the most used bit in my arsenal. You can find them on Amazon.com.

You can buy curbs with different shank-length and port-height. Longer shanks + higher port = more leverage and a harsher bit. The amount of leverage you need really depends on your horse's mouth. Many horses do great in the mild, low-port curb shown here. Some horses respect nothing less than long-shanks & a high-port.

When transitioning into a bit with more leverage, alway use a longer shank first, then If you still need a little more leverage, add a higher port to those longer shanks. And so on, until you find the bit that is right for your horse.

You must find the right balance: Too high of a port + too short of a shank is too much pressure on the roof of the horse's mouth, without enough chin leverage to counter-balance it. The horse will tend to duck his head and bend through the crest of his neck - not his poll. Too long of a shank + too low of a port will make your horse shake his head - it's too much leverage on his chin without enough pressure on his tongue/roof of his mouth to balance it.

You may need purchase a chain to go on the bit separately - it usually doesn't come with one.

Make sure, whichever bit you buy, that it's the proper width for your horse's mouth. A 5"-wide mouthpiece is the standard size sold - but that may not be the right size for your horse. (See my Fitting A Bit article.)

See my paid article Transitioning Into a Curb Bit to learn how to select and correctly ride in the right leverage bit for your horse.

valleyvet.com

The Be-Nice Halter is a rope halter that has smooth metal studs affixed to the straps that go over the horse's poll. Like a choke-collar for a dog, the Be-Nice Halter uses rings under the horse's jowels so that it tightens when it's pulled by the halter rope - which then tightens the studs on the top and puts pressure on the horse's poll.

The metal studs are on the inside top of the halter, where they can make contact with the horse's poll and apply pressure. They wrap around to the outside of the halter, and in warm climates these studs can get very hot while the sun is beating down on them - so I like to stick a piece of duck tape over the top of each one.

This halter is great for horses that are sluggish on the halter and need extra incentive to respect the pressure of the halter - whether leading or longing. It's not as intense as using a chain under the horse's chin, so most horses accept this halter without much struggle.

Be careful when using this halter, however. The straps that hang down under the horses jowels and attach to the halter rope are long - depending on the halter's fit - and swing around. So I advise taking off this halter before bridling - I wouldn't ride a horse with it on. Also be careful when longing in it - don't let the horse lower his head and step on those straps.

Be careful when tying a horse in this halter - for the same reason, so he doesn't step on the straps. Also, horses not used to this halter should not be tied in it, as they may fight the halter when they feel the pressure intensifying on the poll as they step or pull back.

When first using this halter on your horse, be careful and don't pull very hard for very long. If the horse resists the poll-pressure as the halter tightens, give-in to him as much as possible and try to use only a small amount of pressure at a time. As the horse becomes accustomed to the halter pressure, he will become desensitized to it and accept it calmly.

This is a great halter if used correctly, but it can be dangerous if used incorrectly. So use common sense, transition the horse into it gradually, and replace the Be-Nice Halter with a regular halter when riding and tying - at least until you and your horse are familiar with it.

Chick's Discount Saddlery

A chain is one of the most useful tools ever for handling a horse. If a Be-Nice halter is too mild for your horse, then use a chain. You must use a plain halter that has side rings in order to use a chain. You cannot use a rope halter or Be-Nice halter with a chain.

Use a chain if your horse is insensitive to and leans on the halter, ignores your cues, or you need a way to command his respect.

• The correct way to use a chain is to clip your lead line to the halter on the bottom ring. The lead line should be fairly long, so that you can remain safely out of the way if the horse rears. (This is true of any lead line, not just one connected to a chain.)

• Then run the chain through the inside halter ring, under the horse's jaw, and clip it to the outside halter ring. Make sure the 'clip' faces the outside of the horse so it doesn't catch on his jaw. And make sure the chain is not twisted in any way - it needs to lie flat against the horse.

• Take your lead line off the halter and clip it to the end of the chain. This way, you always have hold of the horse, even while you are putting the chain on.

• If you are leading the horse on his left side, run the chain through the left halter ring, under the horse's jaw, and clip it to the horse's right halter ring.

If you are longing a horse in a chain, you must switch sides when the horse changes direction. So if you are longing the horse to the right, the chain needs to be run through the right halter ring, under the horse's chin, and clipped to the left halter ring. Longing to the left, the chain is run through the halter from the left (inside) halter ring, under the jaw, and clipped to the right (outside) halter ring.

You also have the option to run the chain through the outside halter ring - and instead of clipping it there, run it up the horse's cheek and clip it to the ring near the horse's ear. This is helpful if you have a long chain and need to use up some length. It also creates a little more leverage. Be careful not to let the chain become slack so that it hits the horse in his eye. If the chain does tend to become slack near the horse's eye and cheek, to help stabilize it you can run it over-then-under the long halter cheek-piece once, before clipping it to the halter ring. Always make sure the 'clip' faces the outside of the horse so it doesn't catch on him.

Some people use a chain over the horse's nose. I do not recommend this. I have not found this to be nearly as effective as using the chain under the horse's chin. When the chain is over the horse's nose, the horse is literally being pulled from place to place when pressure is applied. When the chain is under the horse's chin, it forces the horse to raise his head up, shift his weight onto his hind end, pick himself up and move himself from place to place. This also teaches the horse correct form while being ridden, as correct movement is the same whether the horse is being ridden or being led from the ground.

Tying into this concept, a chain under the chin has the added benefit of acting exactly like a curb chain on a leverage bit. This is a good way of accustoming the horse to a chin chain before riding him, and makes it much easier to transition him into a curb bit, as he will already be used to the chin chain and have learned to yield to it.

As with all leverage equipment, the chain works off of tension and release. There should never be unending pressure applied to the horse with a chain. When he resists the chain, pressure should be judiciously applied. When the horse yields to the chain, there should be clear release. It's simple cause-and-effect; make sure the horse is rewarded for his yield by the release of pressure.

Be careful when taking a chain off the horse. Again, take the lead line off the chain and attach it to the bottom ring of the halter. Then unclip the chain and pull it out. Take care not to let the links rub across the horse's chin. The sound of them may also spook him as they run across the halter rings. If the horse tosses his head, he may be hit by the loose end of the chain, so take care to pull it off slowly and carefully. Never stand directly in front of a horse when putting a chain on or taking it off.

Chains come in different lengths. A longer chain gives a little more leverage and release than a short chain. Whichever size of chain you use, after you put it on the horse, make sure it does not have too much extra length swinging around on the end connected to the halter rope. If your horse tosses his head, he will swing the extra length of chain and could hit himself in the eye, or hit you with it.

If you don't know how your horse will react to a chain, a good way to transition him into it is to start with a strap run under the horse's chin instead of a chain. The strap will give you, the handler, more leverage to control the horse with than just a halter; but will not aggravate him as much as a chain will. Alternately, you can use a soft, narrow piece of rope instead of a chain or strap. Whichever one you choose, make sure you can release the halter rope from it quickly, in case of emergency. When the horse becomes calm and desensitized to the strap, then transition him into the chain if needed.

NEVER tie a horse in a chain or trailer him in one. You must take the chain off before tying him or confining him in any way. While you can use a chain to teach a horse to load into a trailer, take it off before fastening the door or actually going somewhere.

NOTE: When a horse first has a chain or strap used on him, he may resist it or rear. Be careful of this, and transition him into it slowly. He needs to learn to yield to it; and he will gradually realize the chain is not frightening and will come to respect it.

Pro Choice Sports Medicine Boots II

Bell Boots

Using leg wraps when a horse is ridden or longed is very important to help keep a horse from developing splints or other injuries.

Either a bandage wrap or boot is effective. However, boots tend to give more support and protection than leg wraps alone. They are also just as easy to clean.

The important thing to remember about choosing a boot or wrap is to use one that has a support strap under the fetlock. This will support key ligaments and tendons, and greatly help the leg absorb concussion when it hits the ground and then comes up and flexes.

This is why splint boots are not effective. They provide zero protection from leg concussion. So if you're going to use a wrap or boot, use one that supports the horse's leg and protects it from bumps.

If you need a boot to protect the horse's pastern and heel as well, there are boots out there long enough to do this. If you're a reiner, you can buy boots for the hind legs with built-in protection for the horse when he slides. If your horse is not doing sliding stops and you don't want to use a full-length boot, you can use bell boots (in addition to your regular boot or wrap) to protect the lower pastern and heel. Make sure the bell boot actually has padding on it, and is not the cheap rubber kind.

Wrapping a horse's front legs is always a good idea, especially if you do a lot of arena work and riding in circles. You may or may not need to wrap the horse's hind legs every time you ride; in general they are not as prone to injury as the front legs.

Professional's Choice Sports Medicine Boot II is one example of an excellent boot that features a fetlock support.

A word of warning: If your horse is not used to boots or wraps, be very careful when putting them on for the first several times. He may do some high-stepping. With hind leg boots or wraps, the horse may step high for the first several steps EVERY time you put them on. So it's best to not tie the horse while putting on boots for the first time. Put them on in an open space. And use a lead line or longe line that's long enough for you to get out of the horse's way while he's accustoming himself to moving with them.

Chick's Discount Saddlery

I love the Cotton-Rope type Longe-Line that is 20-30 feet long. It doesn't get easily tangled and knotted, and it's soft enough that it doesn't burn your hand badly when a horse pulls the line.

It's also heavy enough to swing the end in circles to get the horse moving, so you don't have to use a whip. I hate using a whip when Longing a horse because it's one more thing to hold onto. The horse also quickly learns when you have a whip and when you don't - and responds accordingly. With a rope Longe-Line, you can swing the end the get the horse to move, and it then becomes an extension of your arm. The horse then respects you, not the whip.

My favorite is the Equi-Guard Closed-Cell Foam Pad. It's probably 3 inches thick, and is coated on the outside so that it can be used without another saddle blanket. *I've seen it advertised for around $70 - $100, both in tack stores and catalogues. This Pad is worth the money, and it works GREAT for saddles that are too narrow for a horse. It's also very durable, and comes in versions for both Western and English saddles.

(*UPDATE: Unfortunately, I cannot find the Equi-Guard pad for sale any more. I can only assume they discontinued it. It's a terrible shame, because this therapeutic pad could save a rider from having to buy a new saddle. It's comfortable & beneficial for horses even when the saddle fits well. AND it's easy to clean!)

The only downside I've seen is that the Western Version is big and WHITE, which scares some horses until they get used to it. So be careful introducing it to your horse for the first several times.

Not all Closed-Cell Foam Pads are equal! I have tried other Closed-Cell Foam Pads that were cheaper, and they did not work very well. They helped -- but didn't do 1/2 as good a job as the Equiguard Pad does. I don't know if it's because the other pads are only 1/2 the thickness of the Equiguard Pad or what -- but they didn't work nearly as well. What else can I say?

I personally stay away from Gel Pads, and about every other kind of 'theraputic' pad on the market. (Unless I have a specific need for one, such as using a certain pad to lift either the front or back of a saddle.) In most cases, the best fix for an ill-fitting saddle is a new saddle.

I have used Gel Pads before, but have not found them at all helpful or seen any benefit to using one. I don't feel the gel has enough 'give' to it, and seems like a rather hard type of material to have pressing down on a horse's back. The pressure of the Gel is kind of similar to the feeling of water when you do a belly-flop, or smacking you hand flatly down on a pool of water -- it's hard. Not something I want pressing on my horse's back. And the hardness of the cushioning preventd me from feeling as much of the horse's back when I'm riding.

Saddle your horse, then ride or longe him until he sweats. Take the saddle off. If there are any dry spots, your saddle does not fit your horse. If the saddle fits properly, the sweat will be evenly distributed over the horse's back, without any dry spots.

Common areas of an ill-fitting saddle include: dry spots on both sides of the withers, and/or down the middle of the back. Dry spots in these areas usually indicate a saddle that is too narrow for your horse's back.

A saddle that slides to the side when you mount can indicate a saddle that is either too narrow or too wide for your horse. (Of course, anyone can pull a saddle to the side if they have trouble mounting and lean too heavily on the stirrup.)

If the saddle slides around while you are riding or longing, it's probably too wide. (This is assuming your horse has good enough withers to hold a saddle.)

If the saddle is too narrow for your horse, try using a Closed-Cell Foam Pad either under, on top of, or without your saddle blanket. (Check the pad's directions to see what the manufacturer recommends. Except for the Equi-Guard Closed-Cell Foam Pad which has a protective coating, most pads should NOT be used next to the horse's skin.) If the foam pad works, those dry spots will disappear, and the horse's sweat will be evenly distributed over his back.

If the saddle is too wide for your horse, the Pad may or may not help. It will provide extra bulk to help fill up some extra room under the saddle, but if the saddle is just too wide the Pad probably won't stop it from moving around. You will need to get a narrower saddle.

Remember: In most cases, the best cure for an ill-fitting saddle is a saddle that fits.