Horse SaddleShop

This bit has a snaffle mouthpiece with a short shank and a chain. You can find them on Amazon.com.

I personally swear by this bit as the next step up from a snaffle. While it has some leverage because of the shanks, it's a very mild bit. It also helps a horse get used to shanks & a chain so that they are prepared if they are ever transitioned up into a curb bit.

You may need purchase a chain to go on the bit separately - it usually doesn't come with one.

Make sure, whichever bit you buy, that it's the proper width for your horse's mouth. A 5"-wide mouthpiece is the standard size sold.
(See my Fitting A Bit article.)

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Horse SaddleShop

The bit pictured here is a very mild basic curb bit. This is my favorite bit of all time, and the most used bit in my arsenal. You can find them on Amazon.com.

You can buy curbs with different shank-length and port-height. Longer shanks + higher port = more leverage and a harsher bit. The amount of leverage you need really depends on your horse's mouth. Many horses do great in the mild, low-port curb shown here. Some horses respect nothing less than long-shanks & a high-port.

When transitioning into a bit with more leverage, alway use a longer shank first. If you still need a little more leverage, add a higher port w/ those longer shanks.

You must find the right balance: Too high of a port + too short of a shank is too much pressure on the roof of the horse's mouth, without enough chin leverage to balance it. The horse will tend to duck his head and bend through the crest of his neck - not his poll. Too long of a shank + too low of a port will make your horse shake his head - it's too much leverage on his chin without enough pressure on his tongue/roof of his mouth to balance it.

You may need purchase a chain to go on the bit separately - it usually doesn't come with one.

Make sure, whichever bit you buy, that it's the proper width for your horse's mouth. A 5"-wide mouthpiece is the standard size sold. (See my Fitting A Bit article.)

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valleyvet.com

The Be-Nice Halter is a rope halter that has smooth metal studs affixed to the straps that go over the horse's poll. Like a choke-collar for a dog, the Be-Nice Halter uses rings under the horse's jowels so that it tightens when it's pulled by the halter rope -- which then tightens the studs on the top and puts pressure on the horse's poll.

This halter is great for horses that are sluggish on the halter and need extra incentive to respect the pressure of the halter -- whether Leading or Longing. It's not as intense as using a chain under the horse's chin, so most horses accept this halter without much struggle.

Be careful when using this halter, however. The straps that hang down under the horses jowels and attach to the halter rope are long -- depending on the halter's fit -- and swing around. So I advise taking off this halter before bridling -- I wouldn't ride a horse with it on. Also be careful when Longing in it -- don't let the horse lower his head and step on those straps. 

Be careful when tying a horse in this halter -- for the same reason, so he doesn't step on the straps. Also, horses not used to this halter should not be tied in it, as they may fight the halter when they feel the pressure intensifying on the poll as they step or pull back.

When first using this halter on your horse, be careful and don't pull very hard for very long. If the horse resists the poll-pressure as the halter tightens, give-in to him as much as possible and try to use only a small amount of pressure at a time. As the horse becomes accustomed to the halter pressure, he will become desensitized to it and accept it calmly. 

This is a great halter if used correctly, but it can be dangerous if used incorrectly. So use common sense, transition the horse into it gradually, and replace the Be-Nice Halter with a regular halter when riding and tying -- at least until you and your horse are familiar with it.

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Chick's Discount Saddlery

I love the Cotton-Rope type Longe-Line that is 20-30 feet long. It doesn't get easily tangled and knotted, and it's soft enough that it doesn't burn your hand badly when a horse pulls the line.

It's also heavy enough to swing the end in circles to get the horse moving, so you don't have to use a whip. I hate using a whip when Longing a horse because it's one more thing to hold onto. The horse also quickly learns when you have a whip and when you don't -- and responds accordingly. With a rope Longe-Line, you can swing the end the get the horse to move, and it then becomes an extension of your arm. The horse then respects you, not the whip.

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My favorite is the Equi-Guard Closed-Cell Foam Pad. It's probably 3 inches thick, and is coated on the outside so that it can be used without another saddle blanket. *I've seen it advertised for around $70 - $100, both in tack stores and catalogues. This Pad is worth the money, and it works GREAT for saddles that are too narrow for a horse. It's also very durable, and comes in versions for both Western and English saddles.

(*UPDATE: Unfortunately, I cannot find the Equi-Guard pad for sale any more. I can only assume they discontinued it. It's a terrible shame, because this therapeutic pad could save a rider from having to buy a new saddle. It's comfortable & beneficial for horses even when the saddle fits well. AND it's easy to clean!)

The only downside I've seen is that the Western Version is big and WHITE, which scares some horses until they get used to it. So be careful introducing it to your horse for the first several times.

Not all Closed-Cell Foam Pads are equal! I have tried other Closed-Cell Foam Pads that were cheaper, and they did not work very well. They helped -- but didn't do 1/2 as good a job as the Equiguard Pad does. I don't know if it's because the other pads are only 1/2 the thickness of the Equiguard Pad or what -- but they didn't work nearly as well. What else can I say?

I personally stay away from Gel Pads, and about every other kind of 'theraputic' pad on the market. (Unless I have a specific need for one, such as using a certain pad to lift either the front or back of a saddle.) In most cases, the best fix for an ill-fitting saddle is a new saddle.

I have used Gel Pads before, but have not found them at all helpful or seen any benefit to using one. I don't feel the gel has enough 'give' to it, and seems like a rather hard type of material to have pressing down on a horse's back. The pressure of the Gel is kind of similar to the feeling of water when you do a belly-flop, or smacking you hand flatly down on a pool of water -- it's hard. Not something I want pressing on my horse's back. And the hardness of the cushioning preventd me from feeling as much of the horse's back when I'm riding.

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How To Check The Saddle-Fit Without Measuring: 

Saddle your horse, then ride or longe him until he sweats. Take the saddle off. If there are any dry spots, your saddle does not fit your horse. If the saddle fits properly, the sweat will be evenly distributed over the horse's back, without any dry spots.

Common areas of an ill-fitting saddle include: dry spots on both sides of the withers, and/or down the middle of the back. Dry spots in these areas usually indicate a saddle that is too narrow for your horse's back.

A saddle that slides to the side when you mount can indicate a saddle that is either too narrow or too wide for your horse. (Of course, anyone can pull a saddle to the side if they have trouble mounting and lean too heavily on the stirrup.)

If the saddle slides around while you are riding or longing, it's probably too wide. (This is assuming your horse has good enough withers to hold a saddle.)

If the saddle is too narrow for your horse, try using a Closed-Cell Foam Pad either under, on top of, or without your saddle blanket. (Check the pad's directions to see what the manufacturer recommends. Except for the Equi-Guard Closed-Cell Foam Pad which has a protective coating, most pads should NOT be used next to the horse's skin.) If the foam pad works, those dry spots will disappear, and the horse's sweat will be evenly distributed over his back.

If the saddle is too wide for your horse, the Pad may or may not help. It will provide extra bulk to help fill up some extra room under the saddle, but if the saddle is just too wide the Pad probably won't stop it from moving around. You will need to get a narrower saddle.

Remember: In most cases, the best cure for an ill-fitting saddle is a saddle that fits.

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